City guide7 min read
Tbilisi Like a Local: Courtyards, Baths & Bars
Skip the queues and find the corners locals love.
By Tamar Lomidze

Start early in Abanotubani before the bath houses fill up — a private room with a kisa scrub is the classic experience.
Wander the Sololaki and Vera courtyards for art-nouveau entrances, then take the funicular to Mtatsminda for ponchiki doughnuts.
Evenings belong to the left bank: the old sewing factory turned art yard in Chugureti, and the natural-wine bars of Sololaki.